Eigerwandschlucht : l'Oberland Bernois a encore frappé...

[bernotom]

Les prix en Suisse ne sont pas si exorbitant que ça, on y est tous les weekend et ça se fait bien. Pour notre activité, c'est vraiment une destination géniale!

[johan06]

Les prix en Suisse ne sont pas si exorbitant que ça, on y est tous les weekend et ça se fait bien. Pour notre activité, c'est vraiment une destination géniale!

tu as bien de la chance d'habiter si proche!

c'est clair que la suisse devient la destination de rêve pour nous canyoneur tellement les paysages, formes de rocher, couleur de l'eau etc... sont énormes! et avec toutes ces ouvertures dans les grisons wahou c'est magnifique!

[fiumicicoli]

The acces was not difficult at all. Just cross the riverbed where you started and walk up the right river side.
Make a big swing to the very right and come back on a good ledge to the start of the highest part (for the moment ).

Je me permets de rectifier l'accès à la nouvelle partie : l'amarrage de départ (accès très exposé) est en rive gauche orographique en fait et pour l'atteindre il faut monter en rive gauche depuis l'accès "traditionnel" (donc à droite en montant ).
Ceci dit l'accès est moins exposé par la rive droite en montant d'abord par les éboulis pour contourner un bourrelet rocheux (80m de dénivelé au dessus de l'accès "traditionnel"), avant de se diriger à peu près horizontalement sur des vires jusqu'à surplomber le canyon. Il faudra ensuite mettre un point pour descendre en rappel au fond du canyon.

Par contre cette nouvelle partie est à l'heure actuelle intégralement sous des névés massifs d'une stabilité douteuse, donc elle est probablement à déconseiller. En ce qui nous concerne nous avons fait demi-tour et évité cette nouvelle partie. Comme le dit Holzi il vaut mieux attendre une année ou deux que ça fonde.

[bernotom]

Il est vrai que vu d'en bas, l'approche en RD (sens orographique) pour la nouvelle partie haute, semble nettement plus facile et logique que l'approche en RG. Même si en RG ça a l'air de passer relativement bien aussi.
Mais comme dit Fiumicicoli, cela me semble bien dangereux de se mettre dessous pour l'instant, il faut mieux attendre une à 2 saisons quand tout aura fondu.

Sinon j'ai trouvé un Tibloc dans une vasque, je ne pense pas que cela vienne du groupe de Manu, il est bien rouillé, donc peut être du groupe de Holzi et Pascal.
Si c'est à vous dites moi.

I found a Tibloc in Eigerwand Canyon, i don't think it belong to Fiumicoli's group because it is very rusty. So may be it belong to Mathias or Pascal's clients?

Et on a trouvé un piolet aussi, mais je sais à qui il appartient!!!

[fiumicicoli]

Et on a trouvé un piolet aussi, mais je sais à qui il appartient!!!

Super !

[holzi]

You find always something bernotom

None of our group told me that they have lost something. So keep the T-block, you deserve it.
The upper part below the ice was a bit dangerous during our descent.
Now with the cold weather and the temperature below 0°C it should be ok.
I really understand everyone which do not like to enter there below the snow and ice, but it is worth to do it if you survive

[bernotom]

You find always something bernotom

... So keep the T-block, you deserve it.

It is to rusty to use it anymore, i think. That why i say i found it

For the upper part, it still will be there in few years, but without the ice bridges, so we can wait.

[holzi]

Ici le detail description de l'accès de la partie sous glace.

[bernotom]

It is what Manu's group did, but they found the first bolt on the other side of the canyon. So you had crossed the canyon on the glacier upper the new beginning to start? And you put the first bolt on the left side (the Eiger north face side.)?

[holzi]

So they were at the old start from Pascal van Duin. He did this part with some Italian friends some weeks before we started from the top.
The start from the very top is +/- 70m higher and there are 3 additional rappels. It's also possible to climb further up in the canyon for about 50m.

[bernotom]

Ok I understand now. I don't know if they used an altimeter to be sure they were at the good altitude to start.

[holzi]

Ok I understand now. I don't know if they used an altimeter to be sure they were at the good altitude to start.

I forgott to check my altimeter. But according to Swiss Map it should be 2120m +/- 10m for the upper start and 2050m +/- 10m for the lower start.

[fiumicicoli]

Ok I see, anyway none of us was ready to go below the firn at the end of the glacier, it didn't look that safe
we stopped between the two most recent starts, and then went back to Pascal's old start (but on the other side) and finally we took the traditionnal way.

[Pizzoccheri]

So they were at the old start from Pascal van Duin. He did this part with some Italian friends some weeks before we started from the top.
The start from the very top is +/- 70m higher and there are 3 additional rappels. It's also possible to climb further up in the canyon for about 50m.

Plus de precision... C'est vrai que avec Holzi on etait dans le brouillard et donc c'etait pas facile de s'orienter ce jour là.

[fiumicicoli]

Most of the maillons were open

By the way I wonder how they could open themselves, considering where they were placed
I can't imagine a very high flow rate in this canyon, even during snow melt

[holzi]

Most of the maillons were open

By the way I wonder how they could open themselves, considering where they were placed
I can't imagine a very high flow rate in this canyon, even during snow melt

Yes that is hard to say. I had to close (2-4 turns) at least four Maillon and one was even completely open (no contact to the thread).
And I had to tighten one screw as the plate was turning free.

I don't know what caused that. Normally it is high waterflow.....

[bernotom]

When we did it, only one day after you Manu, we had to close some maillon too.
Because they are very small, and when the are up side down, when you pull the rope out, it unscrew the maillon, I saw it during a debrayable.

[holzi]

.......they are very small, and when the are up side down, when you pull the rope out, it unscrew the maillon, I saw it during a debrayable.

That's a good point . I haven't tought about that. That is for sure the reason of the open Maillons, depending also on the rope thickness.

[fiumicicoli]

interesting... could'nt imagine that

[Seals]

It’s sure!!
Especially if you use the short and small maillons. Therefore it is preferable to use the long maillons to >= 7mm. The rope cannot open the screw. Or place the rope in a good orientation to close it when you pull the rope. (but is not easy to think)

Make climbing the rappel is frequently on maillons.

[bernotom]

Or place the rope in a good orientation to close it when you pull the rope. (but is not easy to think)

The problem is if you place the rope in a good orientation to screw the maillon when you pull the rope out, it will unscrew it when you have a debrayable!

It is what happen for me in Eigerwand, so after I verified that the rope will screw the the Maillon during the debrayable, so unsrew it when we pulled out the rope.

[holzi]

The Eiger Canyon movie from Pascal about the two descents under the snow and ice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fH6WIdx ... e=youtu.be

Happy Christmas and see you in 2012 in some other great canyons